An Architect's Insights - On Design by Josh Brincko

Josh has recently compiled his insights on design through his perspective as an architect into a book: “An Architect’s Insights - On Design: A Lifetime of Wisdom in Design, Business, and Construction”. These are the stories that you have enjoyed hearing over the years all compiled into a written format for your desk, lap, and bookshelf.

Unlock the secrets to success in architecture, business, and construction with the volumes from "An Architect's Insights" series, a compelling journey through the experiences of a seasoned architect and business owner. Drawing from a rich array of lifetime encounters, this book is a treasure trove of invaluable knowledge, offering a fresh and unique perspective on the multifaceted world of design and permitting.

Within these pages, you'll discover a wealth of wisdom distilled from years of navigating the complexities of the industry from the voice of a seasoned architect with a humorous, yet don't F with me sort of tone. From the intricacies of obtaining permits to the nuances of effective design strategies, each chapter is a masterclass in itself. With candid anecdotes and practical advice, the author shares insights that can only be gained through a lifetime of hands-on experience.

Whether you're an aspiring architect, seasoned business owner, or ambitious builder, "An Architect's Insights - On Design" is your indispensable guide to achieving excellence in your craft. Learn how to streamline your processes, cultivate creativity, and overcome common challenges with ease. Delve into the art of navigating building departments, harnessing the power of innovation, and implementing lessons learned for successful design solutions from trials and tribulations of an experienced architect. This volume will help prime you for success as it guides you to the shortcuts in the world of design and permitting.

Embrace the wisdom of a lifetime and embark on a transformative journey through architectural excellence. Let "An Architect's Insights - On Design" be your companion as you navigate the intricate landscape of design and permitting, and watch as your ideas flourish like never before.

If you’d like to learn more about our design process, visit www.josharch.com/process, and if you’d like to get us started on your project with a feasibility report, please visit www.josharch.com/help

Details Addendum, another book by Josh by Josh Brincko

My latest book, "Details: A Collection of Construction Details - An Addendum", was recently published as a resource addendum to my previous book called, “Details! Introduction to Drafting Interior Residential Details”. The new book is a collection of architectural detail drawings used in my design firm on previous projects. The collection of construction detail drawings in this book provides designers, drafters, architects, builders, and students with a robust resource with many examples that can be adapted into their own projects. "Details: A Collection of Construction Details - An Addendum", can be found on Amazon.

Several years ago, I wrote the original book for a college course I was teaching because a suitable textbook did not exist. The content was on designing and drafting interior residential details. What is that? It is a sort of architectural drawing that focuses in on a very particular element like a crown molding, handrail, etc. It explains to a builder some of the specific items that should be built into that feature.

I didn’t just start writing a book one day. Instead, I began by including a few excerpts from my various projects that I would hand out to students to use as a reference. Eventually, that turned into a stack of stapled pages that I would hand out. Then, it got more serious and turned into a curated binder with some organization to it. Eventually, I tried to find a text book that could explain what I was trying to explain, but I could not find one. Then it hit me: I needed to write a book.

I took all of that content and re-compiled it into a format that would be easy to use, I added illustrations and additional drawings, and I included step-by-step guides. Then I figured out how to print and bind it all together, so the students would have a useful textbook that would get them through the class and serve them well through the launch of their careers in the design industry. That is where the original book, “Details!”, was born.

I started to work with a well-known publisher who specializes in school textbook production, but I was not thrilled with all the compromise they were forcing on me. I actually met with an attorney to see if I was being unreasonable. He agreed with me, and I decided not to continue working with that publisher. Instead, I went another route, and now you can find the book on Amazon for a fraction of the cost that the big publishers wanted to charge to starving students. I am now proud to offer the companion book to the “Details!” text.

Unlock the blueprint of creativity with "Details: A Collection of Construction Details - An Addendum", the captivating companion to the acclaimed book, "Details: Introduction to Drafting Interior Residential Details". Delve deeper into the intricate world of architectural design with this stunning collection of hand sketches and CAD drafted construction details.

Step into the creative process of the architectural mind as each page unveils meticulously crafted sketches and detailed CAD drawings. From the intricate parts of custom staircases to the precise angles of modern fixtures, every detail is meticulously documented, offering a comprehensive understanding of the artistry behind the detailing of residential design.

Feast your eyes on a visual journey that transcends mere blueprints, transporting you into the heart of architectural innovation. Each sketch tells a story, each detail a testament to the passion and precision required to bring architectural dreams to life. Every drawing in this collection was used in various phases of the design process to communicate design intents to clients and builders on actual projects, and now they are released to you!

Whether you're a seasoned architect seeking inspiration or an aspiring designer eager to learn, "Details: A Collection of Construction Details - An Addendum" is an indispensable addition to your library. Let these sketches ignite your imagination and empower you to push the boundaries of design.

Uncover the secrets hidden within each line, each curve, and each meticulously crafted detail. Join us on a journey where creativity knows no bounds and where every stroke of the pen is a step towards architectural brilliance.

If you’d like to learn more about our design process, visit www.josharch.com/process, and if you’d like to get us started on your project with a feasibility report, please visit www.josharch.com/help

Brick Isn’t Structural by Josh Brincko

Your chimney doesn’t hold your house up. In fact, when your house was built, a hole had to be built in the roof and floors because the chimney was in the way. If anything, the chimney makes your house weaker. The roof and floors are not held up by the chimney. You can remove your chimney, and your house will stand up just fine. You might just want to plug the hole though, so rain and birds don’t come inside:)

Brick is not a structural building material. Brick is merely a veneer. It’s a siding. The walls of your home or even high rise buildings are not held up by brick these days. Almost always, there’s a wood stud wall in brick homes that is the actual structure. Instead of nailing wood siding to that wood stud wall, brick was used as the siding instead. Brick is really no different than wood siding: both are just a nonstructural veneer. It’s just there to protect the real structure from the weather.

Brick facades are spaced about an inch away from the actual structural wall, so any moisture that makes its way through the brick has a way of draining down to the ground. This space is called a “drain plane.” At the bottom of a brick wall, you will often see little tubes, screens, or gaps where any water that found its way through a brick wall can escape. These are called “weep holes.” Since you just learned a new word, here’s another brick-related word: wythe. A wythe is a stack of bricks forming a wall. It’s an old English word.

Back in medieval times, bricks did used to be structural, and a single wythe wall meant there was a single layer of brick between the inside and the outside of a house. Since brick and the mortar that holds it all together is somewhat porous, a single wythe wall was not very luxurious. Water could seep through, and there is no way to insulate a solid brick wall. A double-wythe wall means there are two layers of brick with an air gap between those layers. This gap provides a place for moisture to drain and likely not leak through the second, interior wall. It also provides a place for insulation to go.

Brick walls were structural when our limited engineering knowledge was as basic as: just stack things up and hope they stay. As buildings got higher over the years, the bricks got bigger, and/or the walls got thicker to provide a more sturdy base. Think about it: the pyramids were built of giant stone blocks just stacked on top of one another. Gravity pulls down, so a massive brick base can resist that force. That was the limit of structural knowledge back then.

Something that brick doesn’t support well is side-to-side motion from earthquakes and wind (lateral forces). When a brick building moves sideways, there’s nothing to stop the forces (like the ground works to resist the effects of gravity pulling downward). As brick moves sideways, each one starts to individually separate, and you can see this sort of structural failure when there’s a staggered separation in the mortar joints of bricks that looks like stair-step shaped cracks as it works its way across a building facade. This is sure-sign evidence of lateral failure (which means side-to-side movement).

Notice the two areas with thicker white mortar “repairs” that creates the telltale stair-step patterns of lateral failure where the unreinforced brick has separated over time.

To help to resist this sideways force, braces that look sort of like ladders made of metal bars are laid horizontally within the mortar “glue” between the layers of brick to help to join several bricks together since they are all “glued” to the same metal “ladder.” This is known as metal reinforcing. Brick facades without these metal reinforcing ladders are known as URM (unreinforced masonry).

Before metal was readily used or available, a row of bricks would be oriented on end with their short side facing out, so they could span to connect each wythe of a double wythe wall to unify each wall together to act as one. This was an early form of reinforcing. When you see a brick building that has a different orientation of bricks every ten courses (rows) or so, this is a sure bet that the building does NOT have metal reinforcing. You should stay away from these buildings during earthquakes.

Look closely! Notice the row of narrower bricks that are about 8 rows apart from each other. This is how they used to “reinforce” brick walls before metal braces were used.

This image also shows the row of narrower bricks spaced every 8 courses to act as reinforcing.

When these sorts of buildings are remodeled, it is common that building departments will require the building to be “seismically braced.” This means a steel frame needs to be erected within the brick facade, so the steel does the job of holding up the brick (properly). Needless to say, adding steel frames within existing buildings is VERY expensive. Tearing the building down to rebuild would be much cheaper, but often, old brick buildings are preserved because they are deemed “historically relevant.” Consequently, owners of old brick buildings face really expensive retrofit costs if they ever want to remodel their building. These are often project-stoppers. Even though everyone has good intentions when they want to historically preserve a brick building and make it more sturdy, the cost of doing so is rarely feasible for most people.

So, if you like brick, know that it’s just a facade in modern architecture. In historic architecture, it’s a beautiful burden because it’s not as strong as the three little pigs have made everyone think. The 2nd pig’s flexible house of sticks would actually resist the forces of an earthquake quite well:)

If you’d like to learn more about our design process, visit www.josharch.com/process, and if you’d like to get us started on your project with a feasibility report, please visit www.josharch.com/help




Josh Wrote Another Book! by Josh Brincko

You may remember a few years back when I shared a story about helping to rescue two ladies on a remote island in the Puget Sound. I originally wrote the story to assist in dealing with a bit of PTSD, and it seemed to help. After sitting on it for awhile, and after learning more details about the traumatic event, I decided to compile it into a book!

The goal of the book is to help others learn about a danger that may exist in their own home and to help unravel this experience a little further to put it (mostly) behind me. It is a captivating story, and I hope you will enjoy it. You can find it here and could be a meaningful and cost-friendly gift idea around the holidays, and portions of the proceeds are used to provide carbon monoxide detectors to tenants in need. Find it on Amazon:

Breathe Again: A True Story of Survival on a Remote Island

If you’d like to learn more about our design process, visit www.josharch.com/process, and if you’d like to get us started on your project with a feasibility report, please visit www.josharch.com/help

Seattle Pre-Approved DADUs by Josh Brincko

The Seattle Department of Construction and Inspection (SDCI) made an initiative to pre-approve drawings for a few Detached Accessory Dwelling Units (DADU’s), also known as backyard cottages and mother-in-law houses. These are secondary homes on a property that are detached from the main house, and they are limited to 1000 square feet, have lower height limits, and have relaxed property line setback limitations. These are not to be confused with AADU’s (Attached Accessory Dwelling Units) which are the same thing as a DADU but they are contained within the primary residence. A lot is allowed to have one AADU and one DADU (or two AADU’s).

You can see the drawings that Josh Architects submitted to the building department here:

https://www.seattle.gov/Documents/Departments/OPCD/OngoingInitiatives/EncouragingBackyardCottages/DADU_Submission001.pdf

https://www.seattle.gov/Documents/Departments/OPCD/OngoingInitiatives/EncouragingBackyardCottages/DADU_Submission002.pdf

https://www.seattle.gov/Documents/Departments/OPCD/OngoingInitiatives/EncouragingBackyardCottages/DADU_Submission003.pdf

https://www.seattle.gov/Documents/Departments/OPCD/OngoingInitiatives/EncouragingBackyardCottages/DADU_Submission004.pdf

Our design solutions are the first entries to appear after the ones pre-approved by the city, but they are not actually pre-approved. To be honest, we like the idea of pre-approved structures, but this is a bit far-fetched for Seattle’s thick bureaucratic permitting system. Here’s why pre-approved DADU plans rarely work in the most common neighborhood residential zones of Seattle:

  1. Lot Size: for a DADU to be allowed, your lot must be at least 3200 square feet (and min 25’ wide and min 70’ long). Not all lots are big enough to allow them.

  2. Lot coverage: the percentage of a lot that is allowed to be covered with structures has a limit, so selecting a pre-approved DADU rarely works in our experience since most don’t fit within the remaining percentage of the land that is still allowed to be developed.

  3. Setbacks: DADU’s are required to be spaced a certain distance from each property line, from the main residence, and also from any other structure. It is pretty rare that a pre-approved DADU happens to be the exact size required to magically fit on a property without violating the setback requirements (and also without exceeding the percentage limit in #2 above).

  4. Trees: trees are good, but Seattle likes its trees more than you and more than the housing problem. Removal of trees to make way for a DADU is regulated, and commonly, many trees are not allowed to be removed since they exceed the size threshold to get permission to remove them. Consequently, the required setbacks from protected trees commonly do not leave enough space for a pre-approved DADU to fit on the remaining property. There is a way to relax property line setbacks in this scenario, but it rarely helps.

  5. Topography: there’s usually something about the slope of Seattle lots that causes the foundations of any structure to require special custom design considerations. Consequently, the pre-approved structure needs to be re-evaluated, so there’s really not much about the design that is truly “pre-approved” (if it even happens to fit on your lot based on the previous points). It is common that the topography will be a catalyst for a custom designed DADU.

As you can see, there are many factors that cause the pre-approved plans to not work on many lots. We have never seen one that actually fits outright without some sort of modification. There’s even more reasons than the ones listed above, but another common reason they don’t work is because of a homeowner’s specific needs. They may want the entry door to face a certain direction, or they may not want the DADU’s living room window to be facing the master bathroom window of their main house.

Once a pre-approved DADU doesn’t fit for one of the reasons above, or if a homeowner wants to make a change to it, a redesign happens, and the pre-approval is no longer effective. This almost makes the pre-approval a little scammy. It gets homeowners’ hopes up that they can pick a plan and just expect things to flow smoothly, but the building department doesn’t make anything easy. The redesigns required for most of these situations make the system of pre-approvals nearly pointless.

The moral of the story is not to rely on buying a pre-approved plan because there’s a really really really good chance you will be wasting your money on something that won’t be allowed. It would be best to use the pre-approved plans for inspiration, and to contact an architect that you like, so they may design something for you that will actually fit on your lot that also meets your wants and needs. That would be a much smarter investment and result in no compromise. After all, a DADU is an actual house in your backyard, so it makes sense to spend the money to do it right rather than compromising and selecting something that doesn’t meet all your needs.

If you’d like to learn more about our design process, visit www.josharch.com/process, and if you’d like to get us started on your project with a feasibility report, please visit www.josharch.com/help

How to Get Higher Basement Ceilings by Josh Brincko

To dig or not to dig, that is the question.

If your basement ceilings are too low, you have two options: dig the floor lower, or lift the house higher. Both option result in higher basement ceilings. This blog post will explain the pros and cons of each option. Depending on the configuration of your existing house, one option may make more sense than the other. Let’s DIG in:)

OPTION 1: DIG DOWN

If you dig down lower, there’s the obvious: cutting away the existing concrete floor and removing a lot of dirt from your basement. If there’s an exterior door in your basement (or an easily accessible giant window), you will have an easier time getting all of this dirt and concrete out. If you can somehow drive a mini excavator tractor into the basement, then it will be even easier. If you will need guys to use shovels and carry buckets a long distance to a dump truck, then things will be a lot more difficult (and expensive). So step one is getting all the debris out. If there’s a feasible path, then this might be the better option. If there’s not a feasible path, there still might be an option to make a temporary path by cutting a hole in the wall and making a temporary ramp. At some point, the temporary work might outweigh the cost benefit though. Remember, dirt needs to go somewhere. This means you need to have a way of getting it outside. You need some place to store/put it outside. If there’s no room for the dirt on your property, then you will need to hire a dump truck driver to drive your “spoils” to a dump location where they will charge a per-pound dumping fee. The best case scenario is a big yard for you to spread your soil, and a wide doorway to get it out of your basement.

Once the soil has been removed, the next step is to support the house that is sort of dangling there since you removed all the dirt that was holding it up. Technically, this is not a “next step.” It is actually something that happens during the digging. The digging starts by digging down under some strategic points, so temporary deeper foundations and temporary longer columns can be placed to support the house BEFORE it ends up just dangling there. The diagram below shows the original column that can be removed AFTER the temporary deeper one is put into place. Ideally, this temporary column can be placed somewhere that it is permanent for the intended layout of the new basement. Also, hopefully this temporary column will not be in the way of the excavation efforts. Obviously, you wouldn’t want a column blocking the area that all that dirt needs to exit.

The red column is installed into a hole that is deeper than the existing columns, so you can later remove the short existing black column (and dig out the floor below it)

In addition to installing longer columns and removing the old ones that are too short, you also need to retrofit your foundation walls that are not deep enough to allow higher ceilings. This gets tricky. There’s two ways to do it: benching and intermittent digging.

With benching, you just leave the existing foundation walls alone. You don’t do any digging near the existing walls. This allows the existing walls to still do their original job, but it causes you to still have areas with low ceilings next to those existing exterior walls. There is a 45 degree rule here. If you think back to math in school, a 45 degree angle is formed by a vertical line and horizontal line of the same exact length. When doing benching in a basement, this same rule applies. If you want to dig down 12”, then you need to do the digging 12” away from the existing wall. This means the digging is far enough away from the existing foundation that it won’t affect the structural integrity of it. Of course there are a lot of nuances to this, and structural engineering is required to get it all dialed in. The image below shows how the 45 degree angle rule applies to benching.

Benching causes less structural impact on the existing foundation wall

The bench created from the option above can create an awkward space, or it can create an opportunity with a bit of creative design work. In the past, we have used these as platforms for washer and dryers, a surface for an entertainment center, a seating surface, and we have even put built-in cabinets above them with fake cabinet panels on the bottom surface to make it look like it’s all one big cabinet. The benching method sacrifices a bit of floor space, but it is more cost effective than the next method: intermittent digging.

Intermittent digging is the process of sequentially digging below parts of your foundation wall while leaving other parts of the foundation wall in place (so it won’t cave in). I have seen structural engineers allow as much as 8’ long sections of concrete walls to be “undermined” (which means to dig out the soil below the wall). An 8’ long wall just hanging there is a pretty heavy chunk of concrete. In this method, the idea is to dig out a small part(s) of the wall(s), and pour the new concrete under those areas before digging out the rest of the dirt below the remaining walls. You are essentially just making the existing walls deeper, but that means removing the dirt below them - and the whole purpose of foundation walls is to allow your house to safely rest on the soil. For a period of time, parts of your house will rest on no soil! The image below shows how parts of an existing wall can be undermined to enable a new wall to be built below the existing one.

If you dig under portions of a wall, you can extend the depth of that wall

Intermittent digging allows you to make a wall extend further into the ground by digging under small parts of it at a time. You would form the concrete under that section of wall before digging under another section.

With intermittent digging, the process is slow. You can only dig away some of the dirt, since only a small part of a wall can be unsupported at any given time. Then you need to pour concrete under that wall and wait for it to harden before digging below other areas of the wall. Because of this sequential digging and pouring of concrete, intermittent digging is more costly than the benching technique. It is simply easier to do all the digging at once and to do all of the pouring of concrete at once. The cost of mobilization is very significant in construction. To get a concrete crew “mobilized” on site means tradesmen, their special tools, a concrete mixing truck (or mixer), and likely a concrete pump needs to be setup and eventually cleaned up on a jobsite. Doing this more than once significantly impacts the cost and timeline of the project.

Regardless of which method of digging you choose (benching or intermittent digging), how do you know if digging down to achieve better basement ceiling height is the best choice for your project when compared to the opposite method of lifting the whole house higher? When you dig down, every single item that touches the ground will need to be addressed. If you have a lot of columns in the basement, that is a lot of columns that will need extended in length. If you have poor access to the basement, that will be really difficult to remove the dirt and debris. If those two things are a consideration, then lifting the house may be a better option - but only if you don’t have a lot of the red flags that can come with lifting a house, which you will learn about next.

OPTION 2: LIFT THE HOUSE

If you want to gain more ceiling height in the basement, lifting the house could be a valid option. Basically, you need to detach the house from its foundation, so the house can be lifted away from it. This means unbolting all of the fasteners that attach the existing wood framing to the concrete walls. Also, any columns in the existing basement (or crawlspace) will need to be detached, so the house can be lifted up without pulling them away from the concrete floor. There is likely also a bunch of electrical lines, plumbing pipes, and ductwork that will need detached too. Once all of the house is detached from the foundation, the next step is to slide some temporary steel beams under the house. Then jacks (like the jacks that lift a car) are placed below the steel beams to lift them up inch by inch very slowly. As the house is lifted away from its foundation, “cribbing” is installed below the steel beams, so the beams may rest on the cribbing to enable the jacks to be removed. Cribbing basically looks like wood pallets stacked on each other. They take wood timbers and stack them like a log cabin from the basement floor to the underside of the temporary steel beams. The cribbing provides a temporary support for the house while it is floating above its existing concrete foundation. The image below illustrates all these parts and pieces.

After you detach the house from the foundation, temporary steel beams can slide underneath the house, so jacks can lift it

The act of lifting a house is actually pretty simple. It’s the easy part. The more difficult stuff is all the nuances like extending wires, ducts, stairs/porches, and chimneys. For example, if you lift the house further away from the basement floor, your electrical wires don’t just stretch upwards. They need to be cut and re-wired. The same is true for your ductwork that leads to your furnace. A more difficult obstacle is porches. When you lift a house, are you going to lift the porch too? Probably not. It’s often easier to just rebuild a porch or deck than to go through the hassle of lifting it. If you lift your house a couple feet higher, that means you might need like 4 more steps to climb up into your house. This means the stairs that lead to your new porch need to be rebuilt. On small properties within urban areas, this could pose a problem since many homes are built tight up against their property line setbacks, so you may not be allowed to extend additional stairs away from your house and into a setback area. Additionally, if you have a chimney, it is not very feasible to lift a big, heavy pile of bricks. Usually, chimneys need to be removed when homes get lifted. A new fireplace will need to be built or omitted. The last challenge that relates to lifting is the damage that is likely to occur. When you lift a house, you do it fractions of inches at a time to minimize damage, but as things settle into place, plaster cracks, windows crack, tiles pop, and doorways can become pinched shut. All of those things will need to be repaired once the project continues.

CONCLUSION

To lift or not to lift? Maybe it’s easier to just move? Often it is actually easier to start over and just demolish the whole house. This is where an expert comes in. We have done many of these projects, and we can help advise on which method makes the most sense.

If you’d like to learn more about our design process, visit www.josharch.com/process, and if you’d like to get us started on your project with a feasibility report, please visit www.josharch.com/help

Dimensions by Josh Brincko

Dimensions are measurements written on drawings. The intent of architectural drawings is to tell builders where to put things, what they are, and how big. Dimensions are one way to communicate “how big” and “where” something is.

This post addresses the “how big” and the “where to put it” since those go hand-in-hand. Similar to putting catsup on a hot dog, a dimension is not needed nor provided to instruct us on how to apply catsup on our hot dogs … instead, you put the catsup “from-here-to-there” from one end of the hot dog to the other. Nobody has ever needed to know the exact length of the hot dog to apply to catsup to it.

The same is true in construction. If you want to tile a floor, the builder needs to know the starting point and stopping point. The exact length really isn’t important for anyone else, so if we tell the builder, put tile from this wall to this doorway, then they can take whatever measurements they need - and the person doing the work is the best person to take those precise measurements for their own purposes.

If a client wants a window placed exactly in the middle of a room (centered between two other objects) or aligned with some specific item, that goal is what we communicate. We don't care if it is 10'-2, 10'-1 15/16", or 10'-2 1/16", so we WON'T tell the builder the DIMENSION of where to put the window. Again we don't care what the DIMENSION is. Instead, we care that the window is CENTERED in the room or ALIGNED with whatever. Therefore, instead of putting a random dimension on a drawing, we put the actual goal such as: "CENTER THIS WINDOW IN THIS ROOM."

Buildings aren't perfectly square, nobody's construction work is ever perfect, no tape measure gets pulled the same way each time, wood warps, wood has gaps, glue has thicknesses, plaster has thickness, etc. I can't provide a builder with the measurements for the things that they had already partially built - only the builder can get those measurements to see how wide a room is built (for example), and then divide that number in half to locate a window in the center of it.

We give builders enough info to build the project according to the client's approved goals. Then the builder starts building it within reasonable tolerances while working toward the goal written on the drawings. It is important to understand the goal when you are spending thousands of dollars of somebody's money to build them something, and nobody should get upset that they were given the responsibility to actually understand their client's actual goal. All too often, builders call and say, "there's no dimensions for the windows or doors on the drawings." My response is, "of course not. They don't care about the dimensions and neither should you. They only care that you put the window in the middle of the room, so that's why the drawings specifically say in writing to 'put the window in the center of the room.' Do you also need a dimension on the drawing to be able to do that? If so, measure the wall that you just built, send the dimension to me, and I will divide it in half for you. That's where you put the window. I don't know exactly how big you built the wall. I know how big it's supposed to be built, but what is supposed to happen and what already happened are typically not the same thing. So measure the wall, divide it in half, and put the window there just like the drawings already say in writing." (This was copied from a prior email to a builder who said his framers couldn’t figure out where to put a window even though the drawings said, in writing, to put it in the middle of the room.)

If a client wants something in the middle, why would a builder even want a specific dimension? As construction tolerance change, or as decisions throughout construction change and impact the rest of the building, an old dimension becomes outdated and useless, but the words "center in room" never become outdated. Communicating the actual goal is the most valuable information.

Builders also commonly refer to other projects with dimensions scattered all over the place as the "right way to do it." I've been on both sides of it working as a carpenter and architect, and I know with certainty that providing actual dimensions for things that are supposed to be centered or aligned with other things is very much the wrong way to do it. Doing it that way results in mediocrity and allows complacency where guys don't know what they are building - they are building numbers and not considering the actual purpose for the things they are building. The image above with the telephone pole shows what happens when builders just build to the numbers without knowing the actual goal. If we know “why” we do things, we can be more successful.

If you’d like to learn more about our design process, visit www.josharch.com/process, and if you’d like to get us started on your project with a feasibility report, please visit www.josharch.com/help

How to get a building permit in Seattle by Josh Brincko

If you are considering a remodel, addition, or building a new home, this thought has probably crossed your mind: “how do I get a building permit?” You probably have also thought, “how long does it take to get a permit, and how much does a permit cost? You’re in the right place, because I will answer those questions (and more)!

Let’s get the easy one out of the way: how much does a permit cost? This obviously varies, and it depends on size and complexity of the project. The building department has a spreadsheet that calculates estimated permit fees for you: https://www.seattle.gov/documents/Departments/SDCI/Codes/2024FeeEstimator.xlsx

You can plug in your project type and size, and it spits out an answer. If you just want a basic idea for the cost of residential permits in Seattle, plan for around $5000 for small remodels and additions and around $10,000 for new construction. Those are just estimates, however. They charge you about half when you turn your project into them to start the review, and they charge the other half, PLUS additional time they spend once they finish the review process. The base rate is $257 per hour, and the zoning people charge $439 per hour!! This is much higher than the typical architect charges to design and check plans. Nobody ever said government was efficient:)

Also keep in mind, you may have to pay for other permits like electrical, plumbing, mechanical, demolition, or environmental critical area permits too. Those are often less expensive than building permits though.

Next, let’s talk about how long the permit process takes. This largely depends on how busy the economy is. When things are booming, the whole process can take close to a year or maybe more. In slower economies, the permit process may only take a couple months.

The length of the process also depends on the steps you must go through. There’s a lot of hoops to jump through, so an experienced architect can help save you time and money by jumping through the relevant hoops at the appropriate times.

Here’s what the process looks like for a typical Seattle project that has an ECA (environmental critical area) since it’s common for properties to have an ECA like steep slope, landslide prone, liquefaction zone, shoreline, wetland, etc.

STEP 1: Pre-application

The “pre-app” is basically just to get your project on the city’s radar. This means you need to draw a site plan that shows where you will do the project and what it is, and you submit it through the city portal with an online application form. You also submit a form that says you agree to pay their fees, and yes, they will soon send you an intake fee invoice. You will need to pay this fee to move to the steps below. Once you submit the pre-app, the city will often send an inspector to do a drive-by to confirm your address, determine if you drew the trees on your site plan accurately, document the size and location of nearby water, sewer, and fire hydrants, verify the presence of any ECA’s, and include a few other special instructions for what to include with your full permit submittal when that time comes (like tell you to add curbs, sidewalks, street trees, street lights, or even to put in a better sewer in the street). The city of Seattle calls that a PASV (pre-application site visit). Once this is complete, they assign you a project number in their system.

STEP 2: Schedule Intake Appointment

Once you have your project number, you can now log into their portal (if you have an account) to work through the steps of getting permits. Since most people want to work quickly, we usually schedule the intake appointment right away, and we pick the soonest date available. We have seen these vary from 2 weeks away to over 6 months away. An intake date is the deadline for sending in your full set of drawings to apply for the actual permit. If you miss that deadline, you get fined, and you need to start over and schedule a new intake date (which can be devastating). If your property does not have an ECA on it, then skip down to step 4.

STEP 3: ECA Review

Since most properties tend to have an ECA on them, this step is like a mini permit process that must get approved before the actual building permit process can continue. Depending on your situation, your experienced architect can advise on whether you need an ECA exemption, relief, small project waiver, or variance. In those processes, the building department determines if your project will have an adverse impact on the environment, and they mandate a few items to protect the environment (in their opinion) such as a survey, geotechnical report, certain structural accommodations, or some other sort of mitigation. Once the issue the ECA approval, you now know what to include with your actual building permit application. Think of the ECA process as a prerequisite for your actual building permit process. On complicated properties, it is possible that you may have to go through several subsequent ECA processes. These usually take around 2-4 months each.

STEP 4: Permit Intake

Sometime prior to 7am on your scheduled intake date, you must upload all of your drawings and other forms onto the city permit portal. If you submit early, this enables you to get bumped up sooner if someone else cancels. At your intake, the city staff review your project to determine if you have submitted a complete application. If you forget a form, don’t provide enough detail, etc, they can kick you out, and you would need to schedule a new intake date to submit a more complete application. I once got rejected because 3 copies of the drawings were required, and one copy was on heavier weight paper than the other two. I argued my way out of that one, but it makes me appreciate the online submittal process since it saves the time, expense, and hassle of printing and submitting hard copies. Also, once a permit is accepted for intakes, it is deemed to be a complete application, and the project is vested in the rules applicable at that time. Since permits take so long to review, it is common for the rules to change during the review process. That would be unfair to make people redesign and redraw their project every time a rule changes. That would be like a cop giving you get a ticket for going through a green light because he changed the rule for green to mean stop.

STEP 5: Review

After the city staff has determined that your plans include the required pages and forms, then your application waits in a queue until they actually start reviewing it. The review of the work is not just for completeness this time. They are now reviewing it for the quality of the work to ensure it adheres to the codes (or at least their interpretation of the codes). Several different departments will review the drawings such as addressing, zoning, building ordinance, structural, civil, geotechnical, tree, energy, and others. Those departments will each issue a correction notice which requests additional information to be added to the plans. We try to only submit the bare minimum for the initial review since we don’t want the city officials to scrutinize stuff that is not in their purview. The correction notices may ask to add a smoke detector, include another calc for a beam, or add trees, for example. Once all of the departments have completed their review, they send a consolidated report with all of their requests aggregated.

STEP 6: Review Responses

Once we receive all of the plan review comments from the various city departments, we first make fun of a few of them for how ridiculous they are (like being asked to put a big box around a note to emphasize it - we politely tell them to stick to enforcing real rules instead of telling us to bend over to comply with their personal preferences). Then we add the additional information to the plans, and we resubmit using the city online portal. That process can repeat several times until all the reviewers are happy with the info provided. It is common for the reviewers to make mistakes, forget to ask for something, or to completely miss seeing something on the plans.

STEP 7: Approval

Once all the reviewers are content with the plans, they approve them form permit, and each page gets a city approval stamp on it. This doesn’t mean the process is over though.

STEP 8: Payment

Of course the city holds your permit and approved drawings hostage until you pay them the permit approval fee.

STEP 9: Issuance

Once the city receives your final payment for the permit, they take their sweet ass time and eventually issue you the permit and approved drawings in digital form usually about 2 weeks later.

STEP 10: Printing

Your architect will help you to coordinate getting the large drawing sheets printed, so you can have them displayed on site as required.

STEP 11: Inspections

Once you have your permit, you can start building, and at various points throughout the process, you need to schedule inspections for things like foundations, framing, insulation, etc.

STEP 12: Trade Permits

As you move through the construction process, you will need to get other permits for things like plumbing, electrical, mechanical, etc. Usually the plumber or electrician will apply for those permits on your behalf. They are often much simpler than building permit applications and just need a single page filled out. Often, they get approved and issued within a day - if you pay the fee:)

I hope that summarizes the permit process and answers your questions. Feel free to reach out for more specific questions.

If you’d like to learn more about our design process, visit www.josharch.com/process, and if you’d like to get us started on your project with a feasibility report, please visit www.josharch.com/help